High mountain

ARETE DU JARDIN - AIGUILLE DU JARDIN (4035 m) – GRAND ROCHEUSE (4102 m) – AIGUILLE VERTE (4122 m)

From € 1700

Level Advanced

Duration 3 days

Zone 4000 of the Alps

The Talefre basin with the Refuge de Couvercle is one of the less frequented areas of Mont Blanc. Those who face the long crossing on the morainic tongue of the Mer de Glace, to access the hut, do so to climb the four 4000s that overlook it.

Technical description

The three peaks can be linked by climbing from the Arete du Jarden to the Aiguille of the same name, and then descending from the Couloir Whymper which forms the line between the buttresses of the other two. The descent takes place with abseiling, thanks to the stops already equipped. It is useless to dwell on the particularity of the views that this climb offers, suffice it to say that the ridge between these peaks precipitously separates the Argentiere glacier from those of Talefre, Leschaux and del Gigante, located in the heart of Mont Blanc.

The access to Refuge de Couvercle, whose name derives from a granite plastron that inclined downstream offers a cover to the old hut, is in itself a small adventure, first with the rack, then descending along the rack to the glacier, the long crossing of the Mer de Glace and finally the exposed ferrata that gives access to the crags where the refuge is located.

Climbs of this kind can only be done when the conditions of the access gullies are optimal for snow and at the same time the ridge is relatively clear of snow, especially in the most difficult passages. Also, taking into account that the descent along the Couloir Whymper, exposed to the sun’s rays already early in the morning, is carried out with about fifteen abseils.

Equipment

  • crampons
  • ice axe
  • harness
  • boots
  • backpack
  • water bottle
  • winter clothes
  • waterproof k-way
  • underwear
  • gloves
  • bonnet
  • sunglasses
  • suncream
  • limited food supply
  • sleeping bag

Info

Difficulty: Arete du Jarden: II-III sections of IV degree and mixed terrain.

 

Physical condition: excellent training and adaptation to altitude.

 

Technical preparation: Ability to climb rock up to grade V, good technique on mixed terrain with crampons.

 

Elevation gain:

  • Montenvers – Refuge de Couvercle 1000 m + 200 m on the return. Time 4 hours.
  • Refuge de Couvercle – Auguille de Jarden – Grand Rocheuse – Aiguille Verte +1080 m. Time 10/11 hours.
  • Aiguille Verte – Refuge de Couvercle -1435 m. Time 4/5 hours
  • Refuge de Couvercle – Montenvers -1000 m. Time 3 hours.

 

Number of people: 1, individual fee = 1400 euros.

Weather

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